I've Ceramic Coated the 4Runner

"MM54" (mm54mk2) 10/20/2019 at 18:10 • Filed to: 4Runner

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I spent the whole weekend, totaling 18 hours beginning Friday evening, creating what may be the only ceramic coated 3rd gen 4Runner.

Because s hiny good.

With my luck, if I rolled it outside for pictures, a bird would poop on it. The coating needs 12 hours to finish curing, so it’s staying inside until I go to work in the morning.

But no. It’s more or less this: I’ve long been curious how ceramic coatings do in a real-world environment. I know people who have had their car coated, but they aren’t cars that actually get driven in, you know, weather. I can wax a car and put it under a cover for 6 months and tell everyone how great that wax held up after 6 months, but it doesn’t prove anything. I want to know.

The “CSL” goes on first, and is the actual ceramic coating. After that, two coats of the EXO are applied to make it even better or something.

A little while back I talked to a friend who has had it done, and asked what he recommended. When “pay the shop I go to four-figures to do it” was clearly off the table, he recommended the above products (Gtechniq Crystal Serum Light [CSL] and EXO v4) and showed me some pictures of a car he recently did using them. I bookmarked them and forgot about it for a few weeks.

Thanks, neighbor, for having well-contrasting siding on your house to show off the shiny green car against the green grass/leaves

A couple weeks ago I got an email which said that these products were on sale, which brought the “wow this stuff is expensive” price down into the “this stuff is expensive” category, so I pulled the trigger. It shipped, sat on my desk at work while I was out of town for a few days, then sat in my garage for a week until I (amazingly) had a full weekend I could dedicate to it.

I didn’t do a 100% paint correction; this is a 20 year old daily driver with incredibly soft (as I found out) paint. I did what I’d call a 65-70% correction before applying the coating. Yesterday I shared this side-by-side, which is the before and after of the paint correction:

Here is that same area as it stands now, with the CSL and two coats of EXO v4:

I finally understand what people mean when they say something makes the car’s color “pop” - also the camera doesn’t capture how deep the shine is

Overall I am pleased, and very much looking forward to seeing how it looks in the spring. They claim it will last 3 years or longer. Application of the product wasn’t bad. The boxes include all you need (except a plethora of microfibers) and have instructions, readily supplemented with a gazillion videos online. The EXO smells like concentrated house paint; the CSL didn’t really smell.

I also purchased Gtechniq Panel Wipe to clean the paint of residual polishing oils before applying the coating - this was the only problem I ran into, when I discovered that this paint is so soft/sensitive that the solvent was softening the top of the clear and leading to hella scratching when I tried to use it. Even watered-down isopropyl alcohol would do this (though not as bad as the Panel Wipe, which smells like strong ethanol mixed with PPG DX330). Fortunately these scratches came out with very light polishing, and through some experimentation I found that mineral spirits, of all things, wouldn’t mar the paint while providing the requisite de-greasing. I did this Saturday night so it had all night to dry any residual spirits before application of the coating today.

Everyone likes a good tape ball

Full disclosure: The engine bay is still covered in mud splashes from off-road, which is a project for another day. The interior co uld also really use a quick clean-up. The outside is shiny though, so there’s that. Yay.

FrankAtlanta > MM54 10/20/2019 at 18:52

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Great job.

Curious to learn  how your real world experience pans out. I have a car with OptiCoat, but it’s guilty of not being driven daily/exposed to harsh weather.

MM54 > FrankAtlanta 10/20/2019 at 19:20

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Thanks! I’m looking forward to seeing how it goes as well. I will try to keep Oppo up to date with it.

Svend > MM54 10/20/2019 at 19:21

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Looking good mate.

CSL will add some scratch protection to the paint.

Welcome to the Gtechniq family.

CSL is the the home application version of Crystal Serum Ultra (which is an accredited application product only). It was extensively tested by Kelly at KDS Keltec in Gillingham. He’s good friends with Rob Earle, the Director of Gtechniq.

I’ve used Gtechniq for a number of years now.

Some Gtechniq products seem expensive, but a little goes a very long way and buying larger amounts means large savings over the year/s.

Are you going to go the I1ab (fabric) , C6ab (interior plastics) , L1ab (leather) route for the interior. I2ab is a fantastic all surface interior cleaner.

Have you got some Gtechniq C2v3/CarPro Reload/Gyeon Cure to use on top of the EXOv4 for post washing on a dried car or a use as a drying aid. 

MM54 > Svend 10/20/2019 at 19:34

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I was a bit concerned with the small volume (30mL) but it did go a long way, almost half of the CSL is remaining and I was able to finish two coats of EXO with only a couple drops left in the bottle, so it definitely does go a long way. I might try the panelwipe as paint prep in the future (as in spray down the panel prior to painting it) with as strong as it seems.

Other than the above, I don’t have any other of their products. I know I should get a bottle of something-or-other for when I wash it, but I haven’t made it that far. The interior is just dusty, so a quick pass with a d ry cloth will take care of it (and a vacuum on the floor). I am far from a detailer - I just like to keep things tidy. The engine bay is obscene, and probably the next project (since I can slowly make progress on it in the evenings). I should probably fix the one burned-out fog light, too ;)

Svend > MM54 10/20/2019 at 20:15

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There are some products that I highly recommend if you choose to get into it more. 

Daily Drives a Dragon - One Last Lap > MM54 10/20/2019 at 20:36

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That looks fantastic.

Would you mind doing mine as well?

wafflesnfalafel > MM54 10/20/2019 at 20:50

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I work with a guy that spent several thousand dollars (plus annual “maintenance” fee”) to have his vehicle  ceramic coated. That seems like a much better option for the same if not better outcome.

MM54 > Svend 10/20/2019 at 20:55

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I am always open to recommendations! I’d rather buy the good stuff once than mess around with a bunch of so-so options. Do they have a protectant (for like dash boards and such) that doesn’t affect the shine or end up fogging the windshield? I’ve gotten close but haven’t found a good option there yet.

MM54 > Daily Drives a Dragon - One Last Lap 10/20/2019 at 20:56

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I’d charge my billable rate from work, so you’d be better off letting a pro shop do it ;)

MM54 > wafflesnfalafel 10/20/2019 at 20:58

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I believe the pro applications usually involve a much more complete paint correction as well, which is very nice. We will also have to wait and see how long this holds up (though I don’t have a baseline since I’ve never had one done before). There is also one small spot that fogged when I didn’t buff out the CSL in time (noticed it when doing the EXO) but it’s small and out of the way so I’m the only one who will notice it - you wouldn’t have that from a shop!

Daily Drives a Dragon - One Last Lap > MM54 10/20/2019 at 21:02

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Oh god what’s billable rates? I hope you’re not an attorney or something.

Anyway. Never know unless you as . 

MM54 > Daily Drives a Dragon - One Last Lap 10/20/2019 at 21:04

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I’m a project/systems engineer at a control system integrator :)

Hey it’s always worth a shot haha

Daily Drives a Dragon - One Last Lap > MM54 10/20/2019 at 21:11

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Nope. Cant afford that at all. 

66P1800inpieces > Svend 10/20/2019 at 21:25

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Do you know of any less harmful prep chemicals? I haven’t looked into this process much but the thought of mineral spirits or diluted alcohol on a factory finish is scaring me. I am also kind of lazy and almost think an unwashed car sticks out less. I probably wash once or twice a year (technique similar to two bucket to avoid scratches) and then apply Meguiar NXT once a year before winter (they love to salt around here). Second wash is after the last of the salt is off the road with a good flushing of the underbody.

It would be great if there was something better than NXT without too much extra effort. I feel like I am letting Svend down :(

Svend > MM54 10/20/2019 at 21:40

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I’ve always stood by the products I use and send samples for people to try all over the world with the cache, ‘try it, like it, good. Try it, not like it, let’s try something else, using that product as a base for what your looking for. Either way, they haven’t lost out financially.

There is a perfect product for the dashboard, C6ab. It's a UV protectant that restores the factory lustre of the surface, non glossy, non tacky or oily to the touch, good for six months and is anti bacterial. 

MM54 > Svend 10/20/2019 at 22:06

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Thanks! That is one I’ll probably pick up relatively soon. I’ve been (passively) looking for a good interior protectant. I got close with Meguiar’s satin interior wipes - they don’t leave a residue to the touch, but after the car sits in the sun on a hot day it starts to fo g up the windshield with oily haze!

Svend > 66P1800inpieces 10/20/2019 at 22:24

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For prep, do you mean paint prep before applying a sealant, in which case I recommend CarPro Eraser, it’s panel wipe but dissolves grease rather than move it about like IPA.

For a wash media there are several items.

I'm at work at a present butwhen I get home I'll post some videos and links for products.  

His Stigness > MM54 10/21/2019 at 00:26

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I used CSL and EXO v4 on my e-Golfs, but I’m shocked that PW actually marred the paint. DAMN that paint is soft.

CSL and EXO v4 do not last three years. At least not if you use your car. I’d say it probably lasts a year if it’s washed at least once a week using proper methods. Now that I’ve gone to the trouble and seen the results, I don’t think coatings are worth the time or effort. All of the various spray on coatings (CarPro Reload, Opti Coat Opti-Seal, P&S Bead Maker, etc) get to 90% of the way of the coatings, with basically no work. And all of those “coatings” are all water based so they can be used as drying aids so you save a lot of time and effort.

I’m still glad I coated my cars. EXO v4 is amazing, but since my two daily drivers are forced to live outside, I can never take them in over night in order to coat them and allow them to properly cure before they dry, so all of the sprays have to do. But they make the paint pop just as well as the CSL or EXO do. 

Svend > 66P1800inpieces 10/21/2019 at 02:23

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For an easy wash media with protectant there is Gyeon Bathe+ and CarPro hydrofoam.

Then just towel dry or use a another sealant as a drying aid, wipe dry and buff. 

Svend > MM54 10/21/2019 at 02:35

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Gtechniq C6 Matte Dash.

Clean the area you wish to use C6 and then, apply and then buff. Job done.

66P1800inpieces > Svend 10/21/2019 at 08:23

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Okay!  That is more my speed.  

66P1800inpieces > 66P1800inpieces 10/21/2019 at 09:09

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I love the idea of a lubricating wash and will pick up the Gyeon Bathe+. However, due to an issue with me using a high pressure hose nozzle and to wash my fathers car in 1990s (10ish) I have a fear of anything high pressured near cars (I have a very nice pressure washer for the walkway). Looking at Amazon I see other neat products like Wolfgang and JetSeal. Going down a rabbit hole. It appears everything these days is cross linked nonsense.

arl > MM54 10/21/2019 at 10:48

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Most excellent job! Looks fantastic. 

HammerheadFistpunch > MM54 10/21/2019 at 11:45

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I would love to do this.  Pretty sure Im going to also try this with the boat this spring so I can stop dealing with hard water spots. 

Svend > 66P1800inpieces 10/21/2019 at 13:23

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Pressure washers are not to be feared. Though don’t use nozzles or lances called, ‘dirtblaster’ or that have oscillating heads.

There are good practices to follow when using pressure washers.

*make sure you let th e water run through the washer with the power off and the lance trigger pulled to clear any air pockets that may cause the water pump to fail or cause the pump to ‘hunt’ for water because it’s trying to push the air pocket through.

*when attaching a new head or lance, make sure it’s secure , pull the trigger with the lance pointing away from the car, y ourself or any other person. Just in case it isn’t secure, it won’t harm anyone or damage anything if it comes off.

*try not to get anything electrical wet in the car.

*don’t use too close to things that are easily damage.

You don’t have to use a pressure washer.

You can use a good shampoo, then dry and use a sealant as a standalone protectant, or use it as a drying aid.

What is said below is also the case for CarPro Reload and Gtechniq C2v3. 

TBG > MM54 10/21/2019 at 13:53

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With my orbital buffer, I can fully wax my 4runner in under 2hrs and do a good job.  A bottle of maguires wax for like $15 lasts a few years.    4hrs a yr and $5 is fine with me for my truck.   

Fastback570 > wafflesnfalafel 10/21/2019 at 15:00

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Thousands of dollars?! Wow there's an A$$ for every seat...

Fastback570 > MM54 10/21/2019 at 15:02

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It shines because of the buff. Should compare it to just plain good wax and a good buff with quality swirl remover. 

GTI Sprinks > MM54 10/21/2019 at 15:16

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Great job! Well worth the time and money dropped on this project.